Audio Cabling and Installation
There is quite a bit of debate in this area. In 9 years of being in business and having fitted my fair share of audio systems to many cars I have never had any problems with interference from alternators or ignition systems. I have always tended to go a bit overboard when fitting or fixing anything on any car but I would rather go too far than have to go back and do it all again.
The TR/TS (KR/KS) Magna's and Verada's are a dream to wire, and fit components into.
The rear parcel shelf already has 6x9 holes in it and these are just covered with blanking plates on the executive models. SE and higher have 6" round speakers again mounted on adapter plates. With my car I used a parcel shelf cover from an executive, I fitted the shelf then drew an outline of the speaker holes from underneath the shelf. The only thing with these models is that the holes run from front to rear so your speaker will have to go in the same unless you do not mind doing some cutting of the shelf. Be careful here as the rear shelf is structural.
As far as the Amp itself goes, there are many many options here. While I like the look of a boot full of electronics I personally want my boot free to use. I have mad a small shelf to place my Amp on that hangs from under the shelf giving plenty of breathing space while still leaving most of the boot free to use (and I can still get to my spare J)
The high tension cable (the one from the battery) I have run from the battery, around the air filter where I have mounted a fuse on the little ledge between the filter box and the inner guard. The cable then meets up with the speedo cable and runs through the same grommet. Make sure you tie up all up as there would be nothing worse than loosing your car to a fire for the sake of a 2c cable tie or 2. The cable then runs above the pedal box, here I have run it in some flexible conduit to stop it from rubbing as well as having it well tied up out of the way. Then it gets real simple. Remove the front and rear plastic trims on the sill panel, remove the trim on the lower half of the "B" (centre) pillar remove the back seat (push on the bottom of the rear seat base in about the centre of each foot well and lift. There are 4 bolts holding in the bottom of the back section and then lift and remove the backrest section) and lift back the carpet. You will see there is a white plastic channel with all of the wiring in it. And guess what there is plenty of room for a couple of cables in here too. Carefully cut the electrical tape holding this channel together and feed your high tension cable/s through this area. In general just follow the wiring up into the boot are until you get to where your Amp is.
For the low tension lead the same applies however down the left hand side of the car where surprise surprise there is another of these channels. This time I removed the glove box and ran the cable under the dash then under the trim below the glove box. The reason for running the low tension and high tension separately is this way you do not get electrical interference. As for the trigger wire for the Amp I cheat a little here as the trigger wire supplied with most RCA low tension cables is pathetic and very hard to wire up without breaking it. I use one of the factory speaker wires for this.
As for the power for the head unit, use the original accessory wire that came with the car. I use a fresh power wire, tapped from the high tension cable. To do this, before it is all tied up I dummy fit it and mark a suitable place under the dash to tap from. I then remove the cable and strip about an inch (2.5 cm) from the shielding. I solder the second cable here, thread some heat shrink on from the end of the cable, shrink it and then for good measure I thread on a second lot of heat shrink.
As for the front speakers, if running an AMP you will need to rewire these, if you are just driving these from the head unit the factory cable should suffice. In my XI Verada I also have factory front door speakers. I do not know if the Magna's and EI Verada's have facility as I have never looked. In the near future I will be fitting Kicker splits in the front so I will update here when it has been done with any tricks I used.
On the rear speakers I soldered on the heavy duty cable on the speakers them selves and also used heat shrink for added strength. On the Amp end I soldered the terminals to avoid any cable slipping out of a crimp and also to avoid corrosion getting into the joint.
As I have a young child, it is not yet practical to add a sub as the pram would soon put end to it, this will come later.
© Madmagna : Tuesday, 19. August 2003 22:38:55